Posts Tagged With: Climbing

Renan Ozturk on “Return to Meru”

ImageRenan had dreamed of the remote and beautiful places like Meru. His return to Meru was a difficult and soulful alpine objective. As a climber, artist, and film producer Renan has evolved into unique “from the athlete” story-telling.

Learn More: http://thenorthface.com/meru

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David Lama talks about his dream on Cerro Torre

Submitted by Dominik on 13. April 2012 – 14:23

One mountaineer, one mountain, one dream: a succinct description of the success of the Mammut Proteam athlete David Lama on the granite peak of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. After two unsuccessful attempts in the previous two years, the Tyrolean climber set off once again at the start of this year and became the first climber ever to free climb the legendary Compressor Route over the south-east ridge of Cerro Torre to reach the summit at 3,128 meters.

In an exclusive interview, David tells us about his experiences in Patagonia and sums up his alpine dream in a few simple but clear words: “Patagonia was great!”

 

 

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Climbing Joshua Tree

Clustered throughout the Mojava Desert landscape you will find mounds of smooth granite monoliths protruding from the dessert floor. The formations can be seen for miles from the desert roads. Each formation, has random shapes, sizes and angles to make up some of the best climbing condition in world. With more than 400 climbing formations and 8,000 established climbing routes, Joshua Tree offers world class climbing for every climbing ability, and is truly a world class climbing destination and Ultimate Adventure.

Joshua Tree has become a climbing Mecca in the last 30 years. Climbers and boulderers travel from all over the globe to get the rubber of their climbing shoes sheered up against the smooth desert granite. Maybe it is because the massive amount of established routes, the more then predictable weather conditions, or the ease of the drive right up and camp next to some of the best boulder formations. Or maybe it is just because it is home to some of the best traditional-style crack, slab and steep-face climbing. What ever it is if you are a climber you dream about getting to J-Tree for this ultimate climbing adventure.

Joshua Tree National Park got its name from the famous Joshua Tree that have occupied this desert landscape for thousands of years. The botanical name, humwichawa, is the poster child of the Mojava Desert. The Joshua Tree is found only in California, Nevada, Arizona, and areas of Utah. Within the Joshua Tree National Park, the Joshua Tree is found only within the Mojava Desert region and not in the park’s warmer Sonora Desert or the higher Great Basin Desert. The slow growing tree rises up no more than a few inches a year, eventually reaching a hight of close to 40ft. According to the native stories that fill the region, the trees were first named by the Mormon pioneers, as the tree reminded them of the biblical prophet Joshua with outreached arms leading to a promise land. Fortunately for climbers the best time to see these trees in full bloom is also the best climbing season, February through March.

The ease of access to most of the climbing areas is what draws many climbers to J-Tree. You can easily access most of the established routes from the parks campgrounds, picnic areas, and visitor centers. The most popular area is called the Hidden Valley Campground, and it lies within the heart of the National Park. Within just a short trek from Hidden Valley climbers have access to hundreds of climbing routes, with a huge variety of grade.

Optimal time for climbing is in the spring and fall, where you will find an average high/low of 85 and 50 degree (F) and minimal humidity. Winter can also provide great days for climbing with the days hovering around 60 degrees (F), but bring the down sleeping bag, because evenings in the desert can get pretty chilly. Throughout the summers you will find days reaching 100 during the day and not much lower then 85 in the evening. The rocks during the summer months are hot and almost boil the rubber off the climbing shoes.

From a logistical stand point this might just be our easiest Ultimate Adventure to plan. Permits are not required for climbing, and all the National Park Campgrounds are available on a first-come first-served basis. This might be the biggest headache to your trip. Plan ahead to get to the campground early in the morning and be ready to pick out a spot quick. The more popular camping areas fill up quick.

There are several guides in the area that provide outstanding service for all levels of climbing. Also because J-Tree is such a great climbing mecca many guide services with the proper permits operate organized climbing trips to J-Tree each year. Check out your favorite AMGA guide and see if they are headed to Joshua Tree this year. There are many great resources to select your tick list for your adventure. MountainProject.com offers a huge selection of maps, and routes. The National Park Website also has downloadable PDF maps of climbing areas, the best guidebook for J-Tree is by Falcon Publishing, Randy Vogel’s Rock Climbing Joshua Tree.

Weather you are seasoned or just starting out make this climbing adventure top on your list

Check out the full adventure at http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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Find the Steepest Climbing in Your Backyard?

Victoria Canyon just outside of the out skirts of Rapid City might be some of the steepest climbing found throughout the state of South Dakota. Located on the foot hills of the Black Hills, a location known for it’s solid Granite spires, local climbers discovered some of the steepest limestone walls just miles away from their front door. Cloudveil climber, and local to Rapid City, South Dakota Luke Kretschmar takes us to the V.C.
Check out the Videos and full story at Adventure Chronicles. http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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Top Adventure Trips for 2010

Check out the Adventure Chronicles for the Top Adventure Trips for 2010.
I was reading an article in National Geographic Adventure Magazine today about the 25 best trips for 2010. It got me to think of what my top trips for 2010 might include. Yes, many of the trips from the article where great but I felt obligated to create my own list for you to start thinking of your 2010 trip bucket list. This is just a start… wait till 2011.
http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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DEVILS TOWER SOUTH??? CHECK IT OUT.

The Following story was reported on the Inclined AAC Blog: Re-reported Here:
Longtime AAC member Jay Smith describes his recent trip to Chile and an astounding rock formation he climbed there:
Over several days and two separate trips, Jim Turner, Jim Donini, Jake Moritz, and I established three routes on a La Piramide in January 2010. This is a Devils Tower–like formation near the border of Chile and Argentina, on the Chilean side. It sits atop of rolling hills above the Jeinimeni River, several kilometers south of the town of Chile Chico. The peak also overlooks beautiful Lago General Carrerara, the second-largest lake in South America. Though the summit had been climbed before, there had not been any technical rock routes established on the mountain.
La Piramide is approached via cross-country and horse tracks, requiring about two and a half hours and a gain of over 1,000 meters. While Donini and Jake established Lichen or Not (1 pitch, 5.9), Jim Turner and I immediately set our sights on the most beautiful and prominent part of the formation, the striking prow that bisects the southeast face. Just left of its edge lies the Piramide’s most continuous crack systems. With the long approach, two days were required to clean and climb the first two pitches in less than perfect weather.
Several days later, we returned and set up a camp nearby. The next day we reclimbed the first two pitches and continued up two more to the ridge. The climb was completed with no falls. Turner and I continued in high winds to the true summit, then descended to the west. The climb is approximately 650 feet in length, with four long pitches (5.11b, 5.11+, 5.10, and 4th class). Blown Away (III 5.11+) is destined to become a classic.
The next day, Donini, Turner and I also established Way Mule (I 5.10d), just to the left of Blown Away. Though this formation holds a lot of promise, future parties will most likely need a drill to connect the few prominent cracks.
Editor’s note: Since January, more routes have been climbed at La Piramide, bringing the total to nine or more.

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ICE CAVES OF PATAGONIA.

Several weeks ago on our Adventure Chronicles Ultimate Adventure we featured sea kayaking the San Rafael Glacier in Patagonia. An amazing Adventure that takes one to the most southern tip of South American on a sea kayaking adventure of a life time. The glaciers throughout this region are amazing features of mother nature. As the glaciers slowly move toward the sea ice caves and crevasses are formed creating some of the most amazing and spectacular features. If this doesn’t excite you for the Ultimate Adventure, well……?????

Check the Full Story at http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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REIHNOLD MESSNER

One of the Greatest Climber of modern times…. maybe… one of the strongest of climbers…. probably won’t meet many climbers stronger….
Reihnold Messner has the heart of a true adventurer. Not out to conquer but out to find adventure…. discover this world and discover new places and culture.
Read more about Reihnold and see a great video about his life on the Adventure Chronicles.
http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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Friday Focus with Majka Burhardt

Majka Burhardt is making it happen and we are stoked to be following along with her adventures. She is building

her dream of climbing, writing and finding the balance to enjoy life. This week’s Adventure Chronicle’s Friday Focus highlights Majka’s balance, her passion for story telling, and her ability to find the strong balance that life needs.

Check out our Full Interview with Majka on the Adventure Chronicles.

http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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WayPoint Namibia:

In May 2009, a group of Climbers and adventures traveled to Namibia to discover a new rock face in the northern part of the country. Climbing wasn’t there only intent though. They were also looking to create a deeper understanding about the extraordinary culture and people of this African nation.

Headed up by Majke Burhardt, writer, climber, and guide, the group spent a little less then a month traveling through the country seeking out the connections between culture and climbing. They climbed and emerged into the culture to return home with some amazing stories and visuals. Their story and journey were documented and unravel in the documentary, WayPoint Namibia.

The Adventure Chronicles hooked up with Majke upon their return and release of WayPoint Namibia. Looking back upon their journey Majke gave us an insight on the adventure, the planning, and the memories that were formed.

The project began several years back when a friend, Jeff Barbee, a Journalist, living in Namibia, had sent Majka some photos of a huge rock located in Northern Namibia. With that image imprinted in her mind she set off on the planning, with highlights on Spitzkoppe, and Brandberg.

“I wanted to go climb and I wanted to interact with the Himba more and I thought ok here’s my theory: as a climber we will be able to do that. Is that true.” Majka Said

Through the planning effort the most difficult part was over coming the what ifs. She knew there was some climbing in Northern Namibia, but not knowing what they were really going to discover on the rock was the struggle. Convincing her partners to join this expedition to check out some potentially bomber rock or even possible sketchy slab rock was key. Bottom line, there was no guarantee what they were going to find; But that is what makes it an adventure we all dream about.

“The first time we got out of the car, they treated us just like any other tourist. Once we spent a few days “getting muddy,” living in the vicinity and climbing, the locals’ attitudes changed.” Majke said

For the rest of the Story and full details with Video Check out the Adventure Chronicles.
http://www.adventurechronicles.net

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